What does this mean for Surf Life? First I have to explain how much fun the surfing experience can be. Then I’ll tell you how you can make surfing your lifestyle and how you can surf life in pretty much everything you do.
Since the very first years of my life, my parents took me and my brother to the beach and taught us body surfing. We surfed as a family. My parents could do it and they took the time to teach it to us.
We did a doctorate from body surfing to riding canvas air mattresses, homemade skimboards, paddleboards and finally surfboards. One thing you’ve probably never heard of is surfing in an air-filled pillowcase. That’s what we did. We would run the pillowcase and the beach along to fill it with air by spinning the end into a knot to hold the air in the pillow for a wave. As I said, we drove everything.
Surfing was fun and we transferred that to board surfing. When we started riding surfboards, we were only surfing longboards that were usually 10 feet and longer. We didn’t know about neoprene suits, lines and so we were limited to beaches where there were no rocks on the shore unless we wanted to repair the damage caused by the impact of the fiberglass board on the rocks. If we were lucky, another surfer ran and tried to catch our surfboard before it reached the rocks. Today, wherever there is a wave, it is surfed.
Everyone in those days helped each other and shared the waves. It was not unusual to start on one wave and have up to 5 of your fellow surfers on the same wave. There was no pressure not to share. Everyone just seemed to have fun. We spent hours talking about how many waves we caught that day and what new maneuvers we saw and tried. Everyone was constantly trying to outdo their friends by trying out new kinds of excerpts, going to their noses, turning around, etc.
The other thing that was fun was to help the other surfers improve by telling them what they were doing and supplementing them while surfing. We exchanged wax, towels, and ideas.
Perhaps this free spirit from Hawaii was originally brought to us by Duke Kahanamoku. He brought the Aloha Spirit to the coast of California and the rest of the world. That spirit is what I talk about and want to share with you when I talk about how we should all be Surf Life.
If you play golf, there’s a good chance you’ll miss a shot, miss an important putt, or badly screw up a hole and end up with a bad result. It will probably make you angry. I’ve seen golfers get so angry that they throw or break their golf clubs after a bad shot.
Well, that doesn’t happen while surfing. You have never fired a bad shot. You can fall off the board and get wiped out, but it’s fun. They paddle out and catch the next wave.
What makes you happy and successful in life, marriage, and job? Are you having fun? I think you should enjoy everything you do, just like surfing. As I said before, it is a spirit that you should learn and will learn to move on to your relationships and your work.
Surfing is something that can help you. Surfing gives you a feeling of freedom. It brings you close to nature, in the fresh air and in the water. It is a great way to relieve tension and stress while getting a good physical workout. Surfing improves the quality of life.
Surfing is really fun. There are all kinds of amateur competitions or you can treat them like a sport, every day you surf, even if you are not in a competition against others. Although this is usually an individual activity, it is very rare for you to be alone. You are usually with your surf buddies and friends, either on the waves or on the beach. It is a happy time.
Surfing leads to beach parties, barbecues, and other social events. You develop a new group of friends who enjoy doing the same as you. It’s a gentle lifestyle that you apply to everything you do. Although it can be competitive, it is still soft. You are in the water and feel the spray jet on your face, breathe in the fresh air and are in a wonderful state of mind.